古巴 – 我们帮助成为攀岩目的地的地方
古巴 – 我们帮助成为攀岩目的地的地方
CUBA – PLACE THAT WE HELPED TO BECOME A CLIMBING DESTINATION
七名攀岩者一个接一个地悬挂在离地面 25 至 30 米的近乎完美的一条线路上，等待着Alan发出开始工作的信号。他们中的一些人无法掩饰自己的兴奋，穿着安全带依旧快乐地蹦蹦跳跳，其他人则因为恐惧而紧张，因为他们知道自己的生命仅仅悬挂在离地面高处的一条普通登山绳上。奥拉和艾伦互相看了一眼，点了点头，空气中响起了开始工作的呼声：“好吧， 让我们开始工作吧！ 清理你能找到的所有松散的岩石！尽可能地刷掉泥土和灰尘！让我们把它打造成古巴最好的岩壁！ ”
Seven climbers hanging one after another in an almost perfect line 25 – 30 meters off the ground were waiting for Alan's signal to start the work. Some of them could not hide their excitement and happily were bouncing in their harnesses, other ones were tense from the fear and the idea that they hung their lives on just the single string of a well-used climbing rope high up from the ground. Ola and Alan looked at each other, nodded, and a call to start the work sounded in the air: ‘Ok, Let's do the job! Clean any loose rocks you can find! Brush off as much dirt and dust as you possibly can! Let’s make it the best climbing crag in Cuba!’.
那真是一道美丽的风景。每位攀岩者都全副武装，头戴头盔，身侧盘着绳索，开始慢慢下行，全力以赴地攀登洛斯波塔莱斯峭壁的第一条线路。看起来就像一台运转良好的机器，所有零件都朝着一个共同的目标运转。
And it was a beautiful sight. Each climber in full gear with helmets on and ropes coiled on their side started slowly moving down in full effort working on the first lines in Los Portales Crag. It looked like a well-oiled machine with all parts moving together towards a common goal.
没有什么事情是偶然发生的
就在几个月前，对于来自Holguin的攀岩爱好者Ifrain来说，开辟一个全新的攀岩岩壁并与一大群当地攀岩者一起在经验丰富的国际开发团队的指导下进行攀岩的想法是他做梦也想不到的。他意识到自己所在地区的攀岩潜力和岩石质量都很好。他骑着自行车游览了所有他能到达的山脉和岩壁。但他也非常了解该国的经济状况和攀岩装备的匮乏，这使得他和他的朋友们无法继续他们的热情。
因此，有一天，他决定开始起草信息，并呼吁线路开发人员寻求帮助，并开始在社交媒体上发布它们。
Nothing happens by chance
Just a couple of months earlier, the idea of opening a completely new climbing crag and working on it together with a whole bunch of local climbers, guided by an international team of experienced developers, was for Ifrain, a climbing enthusiast from Holguin more than he could dream about. He was aware of the climbing potential and the good quality of rocks in his area. He visited all the mountains and rocky walls he could reach on his bike. But also, he was more than familiar with the economic situation and the lack of climbing gear in the country that made it impossible for him and his friends to progress with their passion.
So, one day he decided to start drafting messages, and short call-outs to developers to ask for help, and started posting them on social media.
Ola是来自波兰的女性冒险攀岩者，也是众多看到他的专栏并深受感动的人之一。她曾致力于运动攀岩、比赛和追逐最难的路线，但过去两年，她像游牧民一样周游世界，参与志愿攀岩发展和社会项目。她在印度教授攀岩和攀岩发展，在女性攀岩节上发表演讲，鼓励她们参与体育社区，并为西孟加拉邦的部落儿童组织攀岩嘉年华。在尼泊尔，她与 200 名孤儿住在一起，他们用攀岩来对抗行为和心理上的挣扎。
Ola, a female adventure climber from Poland was among many who saw his column and got touched by it. Once committed to the world of sport climbing, competitions, and the chase after the hardest possible line she spent the last two years like a nomad traveling around the world and getting involved in volunteer climbing development and social programs. She taught climbing and climbing development in India, spoke on female climbing festivals empowering their involvement in sports communities, and organized a climbing carnival for tribal kids in West Bengal. In Nepal, she lived with 200 orphan kids where climbing was used as a tool to battle their behavioral and mental struggles.
Ola对古巴的关注由来已久。这个热带岛屿对她来说一直是一个独特的目的地，这里有老式豪车、雪茄、音乐和萨尔萨舞，但也有共产主义政权、疯狂的近代历史和对任何西方产品的禁运。她觉得这个星球上没有其他地方像古巴一样，她只是需要有一天去这个地方。
而且，正如你所见，Ifrain和Ola的道路注定有一天会交叉，甚至今天没有人记得谁先联系了谁，这次合作绝非偶然。
Ola had her eyes on Cuba for a long time. This tropical island always appeared as a unique destination to her with old fancy cars, cigars, music, and salsa dances but also the communist regime, crazy recent history, and embargo on any Western products. She sensed that there was no other place on this planet like Cuba and that she just needed to visit this place one day.
And, as you see, the paths of Ifrain and Ola were meant to cross one day, and even that today no one remembers who contacted whom first, this collaboration was far from accidental.
古巴的情况
古巴从未批准将攀岩作为一项正式运动，而且由于政府控制着可以带入该国的产品种类，因此在古巴任何地方都找不到攀岩装备。从绳索到螺栓，所有东西都必须通过飞机托运行李从国外带入古巴。
除此之外，古巴正在经历灾难性的经济崩溃，食品、药品甚至电力或燃料等最必需的产品不断短缺。中产阶级的月薪在 10 到 20 美元之间。人们靠政府的粮食配给或其他国家的捐赠生存。商店里空空如也的货架闪闪发光，人们的心灵充满了对美好未来的渴望。
因此，尽管古巴的攀岩和旅游潜力巨大，但如今如果没有国际援助，那里几乎什么也做不了。
Situation in Cuba
Cuba has never approved climbing as an official sport, and because of government control over what kind of products can be brought to the country, climbing gear cannot be found anywhere there. Everything, from a rope to a bolt, must be brought to Cuba from abroad by a plane in the check-in laggage.
In addition to that, Cuba is experiencing catastrophic economic collapse with constant shortages of the most necessary products like food, medicine, or even electricity or fuel. The monthly salary of a middle-class person varies between 10 and 20 USD a month. People survive on government food rations or donations from other countries. Shops are glowing with empty shelves and people's souls with longing for a better future.
So, even though Cuba's rock climbing and tourism potential is overwhelming, today almost nothing can be achieved there without some international aid.
在古巴最受欢迎的攀岩胜地Viniales，如今我们能找到 500 多条运动攀线路，这种做法效果很好，来自到访攀岩者的装备捐赠确保了这项运动缓慢而稳定的发展。Viniales是一个受欢迎的国家公园，也是与Holguin岛相距遥远的攀岩天堂。石灰岩洞穴充满了钟乳石和奇异的景观，吸引了许多实力雄厚的赞助运动员，他们希望找到最疯狂的路线和最上镜的杂志封面照片，以及那些更具冒险精神的登山者，他们决定将运动攀岩与了解新文化的乐趣结合起来。
对于大多数西方游客来说，在Viniales的几天里，由于经常停电、人品可疑和明显的社会经济问题，可能会感觉是一种极端的体验。对于来自古巴其他地方（包括Holguin）的古巴人来说，这里似乎是天堂，是一个理想的环境，可以给他们一个进步的机会。
In Viniales, the most popular rock-climbing destination in Cuba, where today we can find over 500 bolted lines, it worked well and donations of gear from visiting climbers ensured this sport's slow but steady development. Viniales is a popular national park and a climbing paradise on the far opposite side of the island from Holguin. Limestone caves full of stalactites and unreal features attract many strong, sponsored athletes looking for the craziest lines and most photogenic shoots for magazine covers, as well as those more adventurous climbers who decided to mix sport climbing with the pleasure of getting to know a new culture.
For most Western tourists couple of days in Viniales with its constant blackouts, shady personalities, and visible socio-economic problems could feel like an extreme experience. For the Cubans from the rest of the country, including Holguin, it seems like a paradise, an ideal set-up that gives a chance for progress.
将攀岩作为实现积极变革的有力工具
在与Holguin的登山者进行第一次电话交谈几个月后，Ola 在夏季热浪来袭之前乘飞机前往古巴。与她同行的还有来自阿根廷的经验丰富的开发人员 Alan 和来自法国的绳索作业专家兼攀岩者 Quentin。他们每个人都背着装满开发装备的包，包括 220 个钛挂片、三个电钻、胶水，甚至还有锤子——这些设备在古巴是买不到的。
他们有一个想法，一个独特的计划，在他们看来，这是影响当地社区并使他们变得更加独立的最佳方式。他们计划将所有设备交给一小群最有经验的当地登山者，教他们如何使用，而不是自己安装挂片。
在为期八天的运动攀岩发展课程中，他们计划指导每个人使用钛胶挂片开至少一条运动线路。然后，他们想安装更多挂片，并共同在该地区最令人惊叹和最原始的墙壁之一 The Los Portales Crag上打造新的攀岩目的地。
Using climbing as a powerful tool for positive change
Ola took her flight to Cuba just before the summer heat wave a couple of months after her first phone call with climbers from Holguin. Together with her was Alan – an accomplished developer from Argentina and Quentin – a rope access specialist and rock climber from France. Every one of them was carrying bags full of developing gear including 220 titanium bolts, three power drills, glue, and even hammers – equipment impossible to get in Cuba.
They had an idea, a unique plan that in their heads sounded like the best way to impact the local community and empower them to become more independent. Instead of bolting on their own, they planned to pass all the equipment to the small group of the most experienced local climbers and teach them how to use it.
During eight days of a sport climbing development course, they planned to guide each person to open at least one sport line using titanium glue-in bolts. Then, they wanted to bolt more and together create the new climbing destination on one of the most stunning and virgin walls in the area – The Los Portales Crag.
Ola 向许多国际公司、组织和基金会推销她的想法，寻求必要的资金。如此规模的项目超出了她自己能够资助的范围。第一个站出来支持她的是the Global Climbing Initiative，这是一个美国组织，其使命与她的计划完美契合：“为世界各地的攀岩社区提供知识和资源，让他们蓬勃发展”。接下来是来自中国的公司：上海的攀岩工厂、Reanson 和 Climb X。她在波兰的当地攀岩俱乐部（Wroclawski Klub Wysokogorski）决定出资赞助她前往古巴的单程航班。随着时间的推移，来自世界各地的几位攀岩者的个人捐款填补了资金缺口，她的疯狂想法开始有了色彩。
攀岩让这个世界变得更美好。它能创造奇迹，让人们走进大自然，并时不时地通过小小的善举将人们聚集在一起。看到攀岩能创造什么以及它代表什么，显然是我们这些攀登者所拥有的天赋。
Ola pitched her idea to many international companies, organizations, and foundations looking for the necessary funds. The project on that scale was more than she was able to finance on her own. The first one that stepped forward and supported her was the Global Climbing Initiative, an American organization whose mission perfectly matched her plan: ‘to equip climbing communities worldwide with the knowledge and resources to thrive’. Next were companies from China: Climbing Factory from Shanghai, Reanson, and Climb X. Her local climbing club in Poland (Wroclawski Klub Wysokogorski) decided to pitch in and sponsor her one-way flight to Cuba. In time, a couple of individual donations from climbers from around the world filled in the missing financial gap and her crazy idea started to take on colors.
Climbing makes this world a better place. It works miracles with one’s mind, it takes people out to nature, and from time to time brings people together in small acts of kindness. Seeing what climbing can create and what it stands for is an obvious gift that we, climbers are blessed with.
社区一次又一次看到了积极改变的机会，齐心协力，用美好的姿态相互支持。
在古巴工作的一个月期间：
6 名攀岩者接受了开发运动攀岩路线的全面培训，并获得了继续工作所需的设备
在 Los Portales 峭壁开辟了 13 条 6b+ 至 7c 级的新线路
在 El Abra 峭壁开辟了 5 条新线路
6 条老旧生锈的线路用崭新闪亮的钛挂片更新
由 9 名攀岩者组成的团队在三个不同的攀岩峭壁上安装了 238 个钛挂片。
有关 Holguin 周围其他峭壁的更多信息，请访问： Los Portales, Sport climbing | theCrag
Once and again, the community saw a chance for positive change, put their efforts together, and with beautiful gestures supported one another.
During one month of work in Cuba:
6 climbers got fully trained in developing sport climbing routes and received equipment to continue the work
13 new lines graded 6b+ to 7c got opened at the Los Portales crag
5 new lines were opened at El Abra crag
6 old, rusty lines got rebolted with new and shiny titanium bolts
Together, the team of 9 climbers installed 238 titanium bolts on three different climbing crags.
For more information and complete guidebook about other crags around Holguin, please check out：Los Portales, Sport climbing | theCrag
如果您计划前往Holguin地区攀岩或参与攀岩发展，请联系当地攀岩者获取详细信息和指导（Yunior – +53 58027885 或者Anjelito -+53 58993602）。
请考虑捐款在 Los Portales Crag 开设第一家攀登者旅馆。我们需要 1300 美元来翻新厕所，为房间配备门和风扇，以满足政府规定的旅馆卫生要求，并支付官方认证费用。旅馆收入将直接用于在 Los Portales Crag 开发更多线路。
支持方式:
https://gogetfunding.com/support-for-local-farmers-from-cuba-to-open-eco-hostel/
支付宝（带注释“为攀岩农家乐”）：
If you are planning to visit the Holguin area for climbing or to get involved in climbing development, please, contact local climbers for details and guidance (Yunior – +53 58027885 Anjelito -+53 58993602 ).
Please consider donating to open the first climber's hostel at the Los Portales Crag. We need 1300 USD to renovate toilets, equip rooms with doors and fans to pass the hostel's sanitary requirements imposed by the government and to pay for the official certification. The hostel income will directly contribute towards developing more lines at the Los Portales Crag.
Way to support
Fundraiser website:
https://gogetfunding.com/support-for-local-farmers-from-cuba-to-open-eco-hostel/
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